We all know how sexy it is to be a surfer. We see those epic videos of guys ramping down 4 meters monsters of water and riding the wave up and down making it look easy... But reality is quite different. It may look easy on youtube, but when you get down there, it's whole different story. It really is a dangerous sport.
To clarify, im talking about real surfing. If you've "surfed" one two or three times with your friends after having beers, and you used the foam kayaks and rode the white water 4 meters away from the shore... that is not surfing. When you stand up on the drop of an unbroken green water wave and turn to one side... that's where it all starts. That wave you half catch off balance, but you manage to tame and ride across the shore (I find the right side much easier for me) ... that changes it all. That's when you've surfed. Oh yes, thats where it all starts.
Until you are surfing green waves, do us all a favor, and stop talking about that one time you went surfing in Portugal or Bali and how rad it was and how you caught like 5 waves in an hour and how easy it was. White water massive foamie board surfing is only the teaser.
Real surfing is a whole other thing, and at least for me, a constant fight.
First, if the beach you are on has sand, awesome... but if you want to go where the wave is, you'll find that many times you need to enter to the water through rocks, not only stabbing into your bare feet, but also under water, with little visibility (because of the water foam) and winds blowing you off balance whilst you hold your board. You can also place it lightly on the water, but watch out for those fins snapping on the rocks.
Once you have gotten deep enough, entering a choppy sea with fat 2 meter rumbled bodies of water smashing against you is another challenge. Sometimes it can be a 10-15 minute row before even getting to the spot. By the time you've made it out, you are exhausted and out of breath. You can relax for a few seconds, but always being aware of your surroundings. You need to make sure you don't stay in the crest and get swiped away. Or that a pro is catching one and you get in their way with your duck dive.
Let's not forget how every once in a while, there is one of those waves the sea throws at all of us to flex its nature muscles. These are the ones that wipe everyone out -even the pros-. If you aren't good at ducking under, you will experience the wonders of an underwater washing machine for 7 - 12 seconds, that feel more like 40, because you are already out of breath and scared of being waked in the face by your board, or the one of that guy who got too close to your comfort and clearly doesn't know what he is doing.
But for the most part this is not a problem. Lets say, you get in fine. You are in a good position. Out of the crest, but close by, to catch the wave when it comes. There is still more fighting...
Do NOT fuck with the local's wave. If you see someone ahead of you, or on your left (if we are talking about a right hander, like la derecha in Fuerteventura) stay clear. This is not your wave. Wait for another. And by gods sake (even though Im an atheist), do NOT STEAL THEIR WAVE.
Because if you do, you will be politely screamed at to leave and threatened to not come back. To stay in the rookie zone...where the surf wannabes are, the waves are small and messy, and ultimately, you cannot improve. If they don't like your face, you could be invited to get out of the water to have a punch around.
If you were reckless and not only made them lose the wave, but also clumsily got trashed by the 3 meter white water monster and put them in any sort of danger (it doesn't even have to be real danger, only plausible danger to give them the excuse), the fight could even take place in the water. I've heard stories of locals doing all sorts of things, like the classic uncalled unannounced sudden punch to the face, or wrapping your leash around your neck and pulling you underwater or a simple underwater wrestle with a guy who is practically a shark with arms and legs. But, the funniest stories always involve breaking your board. Snapping off a fin (easy and annoying) is a classic one you hear. But it gets better...
While your board is suffering bad water damage from the broken fin, to escalate the situation further, I've know of a guy who got his fin ripped off and then stabbed with it making gashes at his wetsuit and his back and legs to bleed. The shame... I can only imagine. Steal a wave, lose a 500 euro board and 300 euro wetsuit. Slight overreaction? I believe so. But you've got to understand that many of these semi pro surfer type, the wave is the only thing they have. You make them lose one, and they will shit on your dead ones (literal translation from Spanish - me cago en todos tus muertos).
- Don't worry about it too much. The whole locals and visitors rivalry changes in each coast.- You quickly learn which spot you can or cannot go to.
Why go all through all this danger and physical effort? To be honest, im not so sure yet. I love the surf culture. The long hair, wet swimming trunks everywhere, sandy tanned skin, pureness, live in the present vives. But... for me... the actual surfing part of it is extremely hard!
I am not one of those crazy-for-the-surf creatures. I have now surfed around 30-40 times in my life. Not few, but still far from being a true blood surfer. Im currently staying close to the north shore of Fuerteventura, where the wave breaks almost every day. Im trying to go surfing 3 or 4 times per week. There is only one problem... I am still not good. Surfing is tough! I may go in for 2 or 3 hours and catch only 2 waves (and likeeee 4 or 5 half waves). Yes, that little... But I think I keep going and going because there is something more. Something I don't quite understand yet, or find it hard to describe...
Maybe it's something to do with the connection to nature and disconnection with the exterior world. The moments of peace when you are out there far from the shore, floating on your board, waiting for the right wave to come, looking at the sun go down over the ocean, surrounded by other surfers. The sound of silence, water and wind. Then seeing the sea produce a sexy curvy one coming to break just right. Paddle, paddle, paddle. The wave gets closer, paddle harder, paddle paddle paddle paddle PADDLE PADDLEEEEE and we are off. Stand. turn softly, and ride down. Catch a wave and you're sitting on top of the world.
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